Creating seams in seamless knitwear for structure
Why do we want to and how can we create seams in worked-in-one-piece knitwear?
It’s so easy to knit a sweater or a cardigan all in one go, but a garment like that lacks the structure of seams.
So, why don’t we create the seams intentionally while working on neckline-to-body, shoulders-to-sleeves, or body-to-trim transitions in a seamless garment?
Here we have a few challenges; the seams will not be as good as in a truly knit in parts and seamed sweaters, and for a knitwear designer the biggest challenge is to calculate and write a pattern that will include intentional seams, short rows, and other techniques for all-in-one-piece knits. I welcome these challenges and will try to create a better-fitting, durable, and structured knitwear.
Now, let’s get to the techniques I use.
The seams could be horizontal or vertical. Let's start with the horizontal one…
I create and work into the pattern a horizontal seam at the neckline-to-body, sleeve cap, and sleeve/body-to-trim transition. These are just a few examples.
The horizontal seam
Whenever you are ready to work the seam into your seamless project, follow the next steps (I assume you work in the round mostly, adjust rounds to rows if you work flat):
Round 1: knit all stitches of the round.
Round 2: bind off all stitches (for the neckline seam only use a supporting needle five sizes up - for example, if you worked with a size US 4 needles use a size US 9 needle to bind off stitches, and when done check that your head still fits thru the neckline opening and if it doesn’t undo the bind-off and use a larger needle). There will be one stitch left on your needle at the end of the round.
Round 3: Without breaking the yarn, pull the last stitch left from the bound-off stitches in Round 2 from the back of the work to the front thru the stitch just under the first bound-off stitch - this is your first CO stitch, cast on the rest of the stitches by inserting the right needle into the stitch under each bound-off stitch and pulling the yarn thru from the back of the work to the front.
You just created a seam (not a fake one, a good intentional seam) - but you will be working it as you go, leaving nothing for later on. Just continue working on your project, and follow the rest of the instructions of the pattern.
You can see the seam on the back needle on the wrong side of the work.
Optional enhancement for neckline seam:
To create a double fabric mimicking the commercial neckline seam (pictured below), follow this:
Round 1: knit all stitches of the round.
Round 2: * slip one stitch purlwise, make one stitch by purling into the stitch below just worked stitch on the right needle, repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 3: * knit one stitch, slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front of the stitch, and repeat from * to the end of the round.
Round 4: * slip one stitch purlwise with yarn at the back of the stitch, purl one stitch, and repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat round 3 and round 4 one more time.
Repeat Round 3 one time.
Round 5: * knit 2 stitches together (or purl stitches together - based on the look you are trying to achieve), repeat from * to the end of the round.
Right and Wrong sides of the horizontal intentional seam in worked in the round collar followed by the double fabric embellishment
Check out the video on how to make the intentional horizontal seam in worked in the round knitwear:
Happy knitting!
