If you are tired of bobbles that are flat and take time to turn work front to back to make one bobble, this method is for you.

I have created a perfect perky bobble technique.

Why does an average bobble turn flat or limp, even if worked with the crochet hook? Because it lacks structure! Way too many flat open spaces and holes, and almost no structure to it.

How did I change that? Here is my method…

Rules first!!!

1. Always twist the base stitch or strand.

2. Use only purl stitches for the right side of the bobble.

3. Always work bobble in the round - when either the right or wrong side of the work always faces you (not flat by turning work); * work stitches, and slip them from the right needle onto the left, carry the yarn at the back of the bobble and keep that strand short**, repeat from * to **.

4. Always reduce bobble stitches in one go by slipping the second and the rest of the stitches over the first stitch of the bobble.

5. Always anchor the only stitch of the bobble left if worked between stitches by knitting two stitches together (you will know which ones - they will have a gap); or if working a bobble out of a stitch, knitting the leg of the bobble stitch together with the leg of the adjacent stitch ( hence no increases or decreases, just anchoring it).

This technique is worked in two rows/rounds.

If you are to create a bobble on the right side of the work: and between the stitches:

1. Work to the place where you want a bobble, it has to be between the stitches.

2. With the left needle lift the strand of the yarn between two stitches purlwise.

3. Thru the back of the lifted strand cast on 5 stitches (by k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 thru the same loop).

4. Keep the yarn at the back of the work, and slip 5 stitches from the right needle onto the left.

5. Bring the yarn to the front of the work, and purl all stitches.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 two more times.

7. * pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first one **, and repeat from * to ** three more times (or until you have one stitch left from all the stitches cast on for the bobble). The result in this row/round is one increased stitch between two original stitches.

8. On the next row (if working flat), work to the increased stitch of the bobble, depending on your pattern either knit the next two stitches together or purl the next two stitches together thru the back loop. Continue working in the pattern. One bobble stitch decreased.

   If working in the round, work to one stitch before the last bobble stitch and knit/purl two stitches together (depending on the pattern). Continue working in the pattern.

   That is it! Two rows and one perfect perky bobble. By slipping stitches from one needle onto the other (working in the round) you create a short float of yarn that will hold the bobble’s structure. When you work the bobbles flat, turning your work back and forth, you create an open fabric, offering nothing to hold the shape of the bobble. And by not creating additional stitches you have almost nothing to close the gap between the original stitch and the excess bobble stitches. Why almost? Well, because you can make a bobble with this perkiness from the stitch itself but on the second round you will have to anchor this stitch to the back loop of the next stitch. Please watch the video for this little detail. Also, by twisting the strand of yarn between the stitches you close the hole that develops when you cast on stitches for the bobble. If you decide to work the bobble into the stitch itself I would suggest you twist that stitch too, by making increases into the back loop of that stitch.

   Having all purl stitches for the bobble helps keep its shape better.

Now, let's see what happens when you have to create a bobble from the wrong side of the work. Sometimes you have to do it to balance the rows of the pattern out, sometimes for the ease of working with knit stitches vs purl stitches.

If you are to create a bobble on the wrong side of the work:

Work to the place where you want a bobble, it has to be between the stitches.

1. Work to the place where you want a bobble, it has to be between the stitches.

2. With the left needle lift the strand of the yarn between two stitches purlwise.

3. Thru the back loop of the lifted strand cast on 5 stitches (by k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 thru the same loop).

4. Bring the yarn at the front of the work, and slip 5 stitches from the right needle onto the left.

5. Bringing the yarn in front of the bobble stitches to the back of the work, tightening it a bit to create additional support for the bobble, knit all stitches of the bobble.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 two more times.

7. * pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first one **, and repeat from * to ** three more times (or until you have one stitch left from all the stitches cast on for the bobble). The result in this row/round is one increased stitch between two original stitches.

8. On the next row work to the increased stitch of the bobble, depending on your pattern either knit the next two stitches together or purl the next two stitches together. Continue working in the pattern. One bobble stitch decreased.

   If working in the round, on the next round work to one stitch before the increased bobble stitch (there will be a noticeable gap between the bobble stitch and one prior to it), depending on the pattern you work either knit or purl two stitches together thru back loop (bobble stitch decreased), continue to work in pattern.

You can adjust the number of stitches or rounds for each bobble.

Try this technique and it will be the only way you will be making bobbles!

Check out my YouTube Video on how to create a Perfect Perky Bobble: